Food News X - From Plot to Plate

Innkeeper Richard Fitoussi, our food and wine enthusiast, was recently invited to the Niagara Culinary Trail’s Farm to Table workshop at Brock University.  Focusing on the unbroken arc from garden to table, this workshop was designed to promote culinary collaborations between growers and chefs, and provide networking opportunities for each.  As one of the keynote speakers at this sold out convention, Richard shared his expertise and The Little Inn’s success stories with 80 Niagara growers, chefs and restaurant owners.

Encouraging chefs to shop locally with the goal of creating a sense of regionalism in their menus, Richard held an open forum discussion on “How to buy from a grower”.  Through this discussion he encouraged growers to become reliable suppliers for local restaurants, for the biggest challenge chefs face is a lack of restaurant quality produce.

The Little Inn is well known for its regional fare, and has spent many years cultivating partnerships with Huron County’s top food producers.  By communicating effectively with growers and keeping things local, The Little Inn’s Culinary Team has the freshest and highest quality ingredients to work with.  Adapting menus to seasonal availability, taking advantage of new opportunities and being creative with your growers, are keys to success according to Richard, with the added bonus of reducing your carbon footprint and allowing room for diversity in your menus.

In keeping with the Slow Food trend started in Italy over 20 years ago, guests are demanding great tasting, healthy choices, and The Little Inn is more than happy to oblige!  Operating on a farm to table philosophy maximizes the nutritional value of your fine dining experience.  In fact, The Little Inn recently received the 2007 Eat Smart Award from Ontario’s Healthy Restaurant Program in recognition of our exceptional standards in nutrition and food safety.

Bon Appetit!

A R C H I V E S

Food News IX - Dinner Ideas for Your Valentine

Being a Chef, I have worked most Valentine’s Day for the past 15 years and I suspect that my situation is not unique! The Front Desk reports being very busy during the past few days booking Valentine Getaways. However I understand that not everyone can getaway to Bayfield so I would like to share with you a Valentine dinner menu to make your special someone feel extra special this year.

First Course – Saltimbucca a la Romano
An Italian (and one of my) favourite winter appetizers. Obtain ½ pound of veal tenderloin and cut into one inch diameter slices. Mix fresh sage leaf, Romano cheese, salt, pepper and place the mixture sandwiched between two of the veal medallions and pound as thin as possible without the veal falling apart. Pan sear with a good quality olive oil for about one minute on each side, transfer to plate with rosemary cream sauce.
Instructions for Rosemary Cream Sauce
Sweat shallots with rosemary and garlic, deglaze with one cup Pinot Grigio, reduce by 3/4, add one cup heavy cream, reduce by ½ and stir in four tablespoons cold knobbed butter.

Main Course –Mussels Steamed in Putannesca Sauce
This dish can be served with or without orzo pasta. First off sauté a handful of chopped onions and a clove of garlic in olive oil, add two anchovies, one tablespoon of capers and olives, ½ cup good quality red wine and then add one can of diced tomatoes, let simmer for 20 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to your taste and add 2 lb mussels and cover for 7 minutes or until open. Be sure to discard unopened mussels. Add some coarsely cut flat parsley for colour and taste

Valrhrona Chocolate Fondue
This dish is quick, easy and can be made ahead of time. First thing, go to your local store, specialty or supermarket and locate 1/2 lb of Valrhrona Chocolate. Make two portions of your favourite fruits (hint: lots of strawberries) and reserve in fridge. In a smaller pot warm one cup of 35% cream, add the chocolate and heat at low, be very careful not to boil. Once all of the chocolate is melted you can add a little Grand Marnier or other favourite liquer. Pour the chocolate into the fondue pot you received as a gift and never got around to using - take your time.

Good food relies on good ingredients. Have fun and source the best when out shopping for your big dinner at home for Valentine’s. Remember that every year there is run on Champagne at the Liquor Store, so buy early for the good stuff.
Bon Appetit...Chef, The Little Inn of Bayfield

Food News VIII - Darren's Wine Pairings

Off the Rack with Darren Erb (Dining Room Manager/Sommelier):
As the holiday’s approach, many guests ask us for a wine to serve for their big dinner. For this very special meal I would start the night with a semi-dry but fruity champagne or sparkling wine prior to the meal.
Enjoy a Sauvignon Blanc, dry Riesling, or a dry Rose to accompany your turkey, ham or goose with all the fixings. All three wines go nicely with the meal, as they are not as heavy as a Chardonnay, or not as fruity as a Pinot Grigio. You may want to try a red wine like Argentinean Malbec which is quite soft, or a Pinot Noir from Oregon. The best option is our own (and Canada’s only indigenous vinifera) Gamay Noir Droit from Niagara. Serve the Gamay slightly chilled, no colder than 15c, and you can really experience the fullness of the wines’ characteristics.
For dessert, if you are having chocolate try a 2005 Cab Franc Icewine from Niagara. For fruity desserts, Vidal Ice wine will do quite well. At my table however, I like to skip a big dessert and offer several varieties of cheeses matched to a nice bottle of tawny port. I then offer small dessert cookies or chocolates for nibbling!

Food News VII - Local is the New Organic

Huron Country is the largest agricultural producer in Ontario. The county contributes a wide range of the food consumed all over the province.  Our friends at Huron Tourism and the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture and Rural affairs have teamed up to produce a taste trail titled “From Farm to Table - Flavour Trail.”

The Flavour Trail includes nearly all food producers in the Huron and Perth Counties complete with maps, anecdotes and points of interests. Download the Flavour Trail Map here. Along the Flavour Trail you will find many of the producers I have spoken about (and buy from) in the newsletter before. This fall when you are in Huron/Perth take some time to stop by a farmgate and buy some harvest vegetables and support our local farmers.

Recently, we changed the lunch menu at The Inn. You will find a table d’ hote style menu with two appetizers, three entrees and two desserts.  The new lunch menu changes every week to reflect the nuances of the growing season and availability of local products. This new menu started three weeks ago and our guests have responded quite favorably as we are busier at lunch than ever.  Join our Lunch Club, Sign up and receive weekly email broadcasts of the upcoming menu, with special promotions for lunch club members,

Food News VI - Four Points Leading to Bayfield

People go to the best hotels to avoid any surprises, they go to Country Inns looking for them.  I would like to tell you about some of my favourite diversions while you take your time traveling to Bayfield:

From The East: Many of our Guests visit us from the Waterloo Region, Toronto and beyond. Most people arrive in Bayfield via Stratford having stopped for lunch. This is a good idea but let me give you an alternative.  Just North of Stratford is the Mennonite village of Millbank (of Monforte Dairy fame). You will find there one of the most unique country dining experiences at Anna Mae’s Bakery & Restaurant. The menu is simple and comfortably satisfying. On my latest visit I was traveling alone and I was seated at the communal table beside travelers from Japan and a Mennonite farmer!  A very enjoyable experience.

From the West:  Guests arriving from the West usually are on a boat putting in for a night or two in Bayfield’s harbour, the largest small craft marina on the Canadian side of Lake Huron.  For a food experience, my recommendation is trying your hand at catching some of the Lake’s perch, pickerel, whitefish or trout. For easy cleanup on the boat, wrap the fish in foil with oil, lemon and dill and barbeque.

From the South:  Our American friends typically cross the border at Sarnia/Port Huron, travelers from points in Southern Ontario meet up there enroute to Bayfield.  My suggestion is the Zurich Bean Festival in August. Huron County is the largest grower of beans in Ontario. The village of Zurich celebrates that fact with a “bean meal” which consists of a smoked pork chop, applesauce, coleslaw, bun and of course, famous baked beans. Events offered are a midway, fireworks, car rally, entertainment and over 100 vendors.

From The North: One of the prettiest villages to stop along the way is Neustadt, located just south of Hanover.  Neustadt is best known for the family run brewery where guided tours are available every weekend until September. The old brewery was revitalized in 1997 with a renovation using the original materials of the time. The Village is also of interest for antique hunters, for whom there are numerous shops in the village.

Have a look at www.shakespearetotheshoreline.ca and discover more of Huron and Perth Counties with themed self-guided driving tours.

Food News V – Surf and Turf Redux

Lake Huron Fishery

We are very lucky to be able to buy all our freshwater fish needs right here in the village fresh off the boat from Bayfield Fish and Seafood. Our fishmonger Scott is currently processing Whitefish and Lake Trout. A testament to our healthy fishery is that 75% of the catch coming from Grand Bend, Bayfield, Goderich and Kincardine will end up in New York and Chicago, the remainder stays in the local market.

Two issues have arisen within the Lake Huron fishery - some might say man-made issues.  Lake Huron is warmer because the earth is warmer and this could bode poorly for the future of the industry as both whitefish and trout do best in cold water. However the pickerel and perch yield will be good in future years as they tend to thrive in warmer waters.  Scott says the 06’ Yellow Perch season was the best in 20 years. He attributes this to the Perch feeding on Goby’s, which is the second issue.  A Goby is an unnatural invader in the Great Lakes. It came from ship ballast about 10 years ago and has now established itself, not unlike zebra mussels.  Even though Perch feed from Goby’s, we are unsure of the future implications this non-native species will have on Huron’s fishery.

If you rise early enough you can see the fishing boats leave Bayfield harbour most mornings.  Once they reel in their catch and re-cast their nets, they steam back into port followed by the huge flocks of seagulls feeding on the “dressed” fish discards which are thrown overboard from the fish tugs. 

Be assured, you will always receive the freshest fish as Bayfield Fish and Seafood is located within meters of the government docks where the fish tugs are off-loaded in the early evening.  Scott then works at a feverish rate all day and night, descaling, heading, filleting and deboning before setting his craft in the display case you see when you walk in the door.
Welcome to the 2007 fishing season!

Spring Brings Fiddleheads
Fiddleheads are young ferns which have yet to ‘scroll’ in maturity to the full blooming plants some know and love to eat.   At this time of year, I like to take my cooking class participants to the Bayfield River area for an afternoon of fiddlehead picking. I really enjoy an afternoon of fiddlehead picking as it is quite like Blueberry picking in the sense that it is a group activity and you meet other foragers tramping around in the woods doing the same!
When cooking fiddleheads - first remove all the yellow/brown skin, bring to boil and remove the water, add water and bring to a boil again until desired tenderness. Removing the water reduces bitterness. When out picking fiddleheads try not to take more than three tops per plant. Each plant has seven tops that turn into ferns and over-picking will kill the plant and we know you want to sustain your fiddlehead hotspot.
We have been busy in the kitchen with the new spring menu, and of course we have fiddleheads. Come try our Seared Scallop and Fiddlehead appetizer, it will only be available for a short time as sadly the season will be over in a few weeks.

Open Season for Farmers’ Markets
Buying local is a vital link in supporting Ontario farmers, the rural economy and Ontario’s world class food industry. During your next stay at The Little Inn go to the farmers’ market in Goderich.  Located on “The Square” in downtown Goderich, you will find an outdoor Farmers' Market featuring Ontario grown products. You will find everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to local maple syrup and pork and beef products as well as baked goods. Visit Saturdays from the Victoria Day long weekend to Thanksgiving weekend.

Food News IV – The Skinny on Local Cheeses

Monforte Dairy

Ruth Klausen from Monforte Dairy near Bayfield, has introduced a new cheese named Vigaroso - the literal translation being “red blooded”. The outstanding taste comes from the cheese being soaked in red wine (Ontario wine of course!). A firm sheep’s milk cheese, burgundy in colour, it’s quickly earning a home among her collection of outstanding sheep’s milk cheeses. 

Other news from Ruth is that Mornington Dairy, where Monforte makes their cheese, has received CIFA status which enables international distribution. Attention American friends, be sure to keep your eye out for the name Monforte Dairy in your best cheese shops, or ask the cheesemonger to order it in!
 
Ruth has taken a bit of a departure from using exclusively sheep’s milk and is producing an old styled cheddar using cow’s milk.  The cheddar will be drier and more intense in flavour than what you may be used to. The reason being is that the cheddar is not wrapped in plastic but rather it’s wrapped with lard and muslin cloth.

Harmony Organic

While perusing my local grocer, I noticed a small wheel of Brie, not an unusual find until I noticed the label as being “Harmony Organic.”  Taking another look, the label had the address of Bornholm, Ontario which is a short distance from Bayfield. Many of you in Ontario will recognize Harmony Organic as a leader in the organic dairy milk market. After a quick call to the dairy I was informed that they have branched out into cheesemaking with the possibility of adding more varietals. I am excited for the new cheesemakers and also to have a new artisanal food producer in the area.
Cuisine Minceur
After a big New Year celebration of having fun, I started to think about my diet. I believe in “Cuisine Minceur” or the concept of eating well and being healthy.  Eating well does include good food which I have incorporated on my new winter menu.  For instance fresh ingredients, time to cook and knowing where your food comes from is good for you.  Take my new Lamb Shank braised in Shiraz dish.  Typically the meat cut is tough and fatty, I slowly braise (which eliminates much of the fat), add vegetables, use good wine and homemade stock.  The outcome is a dish high in nutrition.  Be healthy and eat well, but remember moderation is the key!

Food News III - Rumours

Rumours Abound... Konrad Ejbich, a leading wine writer recently featured on CBC Radio, was asked a question regarding alternative and/or emerging wine producing regions outside of the Erie North Shore, Niagara and Prince Edward County.The wine expert replied that the stretch of land between Bayfield and Goderich, two kilometres inland, there is a perfect microclimate with sandy soil.

Reliable sources from the Niagara wine world tell us that this microclimate is perfect for growing grapes similar to the varietals found in Alsace such as Gamay Noir Droit, Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay that are adapted to cold climates. Let's not forget Vidal Icewine.

Needless to say, this has sent the wine-lovers in our little region of the world into a frenzy! However, the land prices remain unchanged.

I have said in this column many times that Huron County is one of the best areas for growing food. Autumn is the season of collard greens; they are good for you and great tasting. Best of all, the crop is decent in Bayfield area this year. Think kale, green beans, and leeks. Did you know The Little Inn hosts many bean buyers from Japan? Huron County is Canada’s best bean producing region with much of the yield going to the discerning Japanese market.

Collards are smooth, broad, dark green leaves. They have a hearty, chewy texture and an assertive flavour that mellows with long cooking. Collards are hardy enough to withstand a hard frost, and their flavour actually improves afterward. They are not often eaten raw. They are tastiest sautéed with garlic and onion or boiled in broth or salted water, try them in a peanut sauce.

Food News II - Wagyu Found!

An Introduction to the Schilbe Farm...
Just five minutes north of Bayfield, the food lover will find a roadside farm growing arguably the sweetest of Ontario sweet corn.  The locally famous Schilbe farm has been growing not only corn but also Zucchini, patty pans, tomatoes, beets and much more.
Freshness is unequalled as the Schilbe Farm produce never goes to a food terminal but rather stays at the farm and is exclusively available there. M. Schilbe says that the growing season is at least 3-4 weeks early and that half of the corn yield is already sold. Amazingly she has already started to pull pumpkins and squash!
The Schilbe Family Farm is located at 77904 Orchard Line, 1.5km north of the Bayfield Berry Farm.

Found! Waygu Cattle Farm in Formosa AKA Kobe Beef...
The village of Formosa is only 40 minutes North of Bayfield. On a recent road trip through Ontario’s most agriculturally productive region we came across an authentic Wagyu cattle farm touting themselves as the first Wagyu cattle operation in the province.
What is a Wagyu cow? Let's start with the basics—Kobe beef comes from a breed of cattle called Wagyu. In order to earn the designation/appellation of "Kobe Beef", the Wagyu beef must come from Kobe, Japan, and meet rigid production standards imposed in that prefecture. We cannot call the Formosa cows Kobe beef, for the same reason we cannot call Niagara Sparkling wine Champagne.
We like Wagyu sashimi, or thin raw strips of beef marinated in a bit of soy sauce, dashi broth and green onion, a very popular dish in Japan.
The Wagyu cattle farm is located on Main Street in Formosa, Southern Bruce County, and tours available 

Gazpacho Recipe by Young Apprentice Jeffrey, aka Cheffrey
Although gazpacho has been around since as early as the eighth century in Spain, it took North America until the 1960’s to catch on. Today many Spaniards keep a pitcher of gazpacho in the fridge much as we might keep iced tea. Our young cook apprentice Jeffrey has supplied the newsletter with his recipe.

3 cups cored, coarsely chopped fresh tomato
1 ½ cups peeled, coarsely chopped cucumber
1 green pepper, cored, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, sliced
½ cup water
5 tablespoons olive or corn oil
¼ cup red- or white-wine vinegar
Pinch of Saffron and Salt to taste
2 slices untrimmed fresh white bread, cubed

1. Chill 6 shallow soup bowls in the refrigerator. Combine all the ingredients in the container of an electric blender. Blend at high speed, pausing now and then to scrape down with a rubber spatula as necessary.
2. Pour the mixture through a large sieve placed inside a mixing bowl. Press and stir with a wooden spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the solids. Taste soup for seasoning and add more salt and vinegar if desired. Chill thoroughly before serving. Serves 6.

Food News I - Local Foodstuffs

Chef discusses his meat supplier and some of their specialties....."Since coming to Bayfield The Inn and I have been working with Metzger Meats founder Gerhardt Metzger. Gerhardt and his family immigrated to Canada from Germany in 1988 and quickly became involved in the food service industry purchasing a hog farm and later opening a specialty butchery and abattoir in 1990.

The literal translation of “Metzger” in German means “butcher” in English, and when Gerhardt mentioned he is from a family of butchers I knew I had my new meat guy! Metzger’s strength is his pork, when a butcher sees the process from start to finish by raising his own pork, you know the product will be good!

My recommendation is the pork tenderloin, seared, roasted and herb crusted, it is by far the best I have ever had. Hormones, steroids and antibiotics are not used and the tenderness is unequalled.

This year’s must haves are the Westphalian Ham (be sure to ask for extra thin) and his salami and summer sausage.  The salami stands out as they are cold fermented; the true German and Italian style then aged for up to six weeks. Most importantly, no fillers such as water or starches are ever included. Did you know the store bought meats are usually aged overnight chemically? I say no thanks!”

Metzger Meats is located in the town of Hensall, only 10 minutes from Bayfield.

For herbs and fresh vegetables Chef also has a local supplier…“The Herb Man -  aka Mike Lazet is busy this spring building a permanently structured greenhouse heated with an alternative fuel furnace.  I like Mike because he has really high end sprouts such as pea tendrils, bean sprouts, broccoli sprouts and radish sprouts which are great in many of the dishes I prepare daily. Sprouts are Mike’s forte and watchout Toronto soon you will be finding The Herb Man’s product in only the best food stores!

Each year I get excited because of the variety of  high end vegetables available such as Mike's amazing French beans (the skinny kind), four different kinds of fingerling potatoes (including purple!), patty pan squash and real heirloom tomatoes.”

Stop by his 4 acre farm located at 79253 Highway 21 located between between Bayfield and Goderich.  The Herb Man invites Little Inn guests to wander the vegetable garden and to see the ever-growing outdoor garden train set, his Dad’s hobby!

Chef talks about the Bayfield Berry Farm...“Marlene O’Brien says that April and May were a flip-flop.  April was hot and dry and May was cold and wet, go figure in Canada eh?  Out of this came a little frost damage but Marlene says she is expecting a good crop of her white asparagus and Saskatoon berries. What is a Saskatoon berry? According to Marlene 'it’s a mix between blueberries and black currents with a hint of almonds.' She further explains that Saskatoon berries are rarely grown west of Manitoba, maybe this summer I will feature a Saskatoon berry flan for my dessert menu!

I asked Marlene what she takes home each night to cook, she says “I prefer to blanch my white asparagus leaving them firm, turn the heat off for three minutes, toss with salt, butter and herbs, then serve.”

Being a chef I got nervous when I heard frost damage but Marlene was quick to reply that the berry season is coming and forecasters are saying we will have a fantastically hot and dry growing season.”

The Bayfield Berry Farm specializes in Field to Table food products. Located at 77721 Orchard Line, only five minutes from The Little Inn.

“I think I have covered the basic meat, starch, vegetable and berry dessert. Come to Bayfield and visit the many food producers in Ontario’s most productive agricultural region. Watch for the late summer newsletter where I will be discussing my favourite picks for the Autumn harvest!”

Eat Well,

Chef

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